North Lake Art Classes Fulmer

How to Mat

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http://www.danielsmith.com/INKSMITH/0103/default.htm
http://www.danielsmith.com/2002/technical-leaflets/technical-leaflets-matting.htm

Why a mat?
A mat has two major functions:
1. It provides protection of the artwork from handling.
2. It separates the artwork form the visual distractions of the surrounding environment.

Mat color
The mat color should be chosen to make the artwork look its best. This usually means white or black. Museums use only white mats. Decor mats used for home or office interior design may be a variety of colors. For this class choose only white, off-white, or black.

Mat proportion
The size of the mat affects how the viewer views the artwork. A mat that is unusually small may not provide enough separation between the artwork and the environment. An unusually large mat may make a tiny artwork inside look special. The traditional proportions of a mat border are 3 units o the two sides and top and 31/2 units on the bottom. The bottom is larger to create more "weight," which helps support the artwork visually.
It is unusual for acceptable mat borders to be less than 3 inches.

Matting
In matting, a window is cut in the mat board. A "backing board" is hinged behind it. The artwork is sandwiched in between so that it is visible through the opening. Often acetate or shrink-wrap is enveloped around the mat for protection.

Dry Mounting
Dry mounting is a process that attaches the artwork to a mat. Depending on the adhesive, it is often considered irreversible. To dry mount with rubber cement, coat both the back of the artwork and the front the mat with rubber cement. Wait until each is tacky, and then press both together - carefully.

HOW TO MAT

Materials

100% rag mat board is the best way to achieve archival quality. For class projects this is not necessary, be aware that you may not want to leave any work that you wish to keep for a long time in a lesser quality mat and backing board.
The backing board can either be another piece of mat, foam core, or cardboard.
Linen paper tape is again the archival choice; however, using white glue and strips of the same paper as your artwork is also acceptable. Do not use masking tape.
Ruler, straight edge, pencil, utility knife, or mat cutter.

Measure	Carefully measure the area of the artwork that you wish to be viewed. There should be at least ¼ to ½ inch edge left to be under the mat. Decide how wide you want your mat border to be. It is recommended that the width be at least 2 ½ inches. Some artists like to weight the bottom by having that width be ½ to 1 inch wider.

Cutting the Mat	On the backside of the mat, use a straight edge, ruler, and a pencil to mark where the opening is to be cut. Always double-check before cutting. Most bevel mat cutters are designed to cut from the back so that the angle of the blade points away for the center of the mat. You will need to make a very slight over-cut at the corners (1/8 inch) in order to cut the bevel on the front side. Uneven edges may be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper. Emory boards for filing fingernails work fine.

Backing Board	Cut a backing board slightly smaller than the mat. An 1/8^th of an inch all the way around will be sufficient. This will keep it from showing when finished.

Putting it together	Lay the two pieces flat on a table with the tops butting each other. The inside of the mats should be facing up. Use 4 or 5 linen tape "t"s to hinge the two together. Place the artwork under the opening of the mat. Slide it around until it is aligned correctly Tape it to the backing at the top only. This is done to allow the paper to stretch and shrink with the humidity. I not allowed to do so, it will buckle and wrinkle.

Finishing Options	One option is to place the mat under glass or Plexiglas in a frame. A second option is to wrap the mat I acetate or shrink-wrap. When using acetate, "gift wrap" the edges on the back after the excess has been cut away from the corners Secure with strong tape, like strapping tape. Never use masking tape.